HELLO TO FASHION AW11! Trend 1: # BURGUNDY

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

The London riots are terrible. I've done my bit today by spreading the word about @riotcleanup and am keeping a level head, not getting carried away in the hysteria like many people around on Twitter today. If my local area is affected I will be there with my rubber gloves and broom.  In the meantime, life goes on. Life should go on. So if you are joining the blog for a bit of light relief, you will find it!

Thanks Susie Bubble for this!

As I mentioned before going on holiday, the blog is getting a revamp. We're migrating to our very own URL Fashioneditoratlarge.com soon, and breaking away from the blogger format.

One of the aspects I'm introducing is posts pinpointing the absolute fashion essentials on any given day, week, month or season. I'm talking about the item or items so on it that when you buy and wear them, they make you feel instantly up to date and amazing. If you're anything like me, this week you'll be looking at online boutiques "What's New" sections at the new Autumn/Winter 2011 pieces arriving, and feeling your pulse quicken.

As we run up to September I'll be revealing the overarching trends for the season in twice weekly blasts. (I was going to do it earlier in the summer, but decided it would be more useful now.) Today I'm making a soft start and writing about burgundy, the colour.

Shades of claret and burgundy are set to become THE colours of the new season; at least through September into October. The popularity of the colour began with Phoebe Philo at Celine a year ago, and it has taken this long to pollenate and touch down at fashion retail level. Buying something in this colour will make you feel fashionable. Its as simple as that. Here are the pieces that are guaranteed to make you feel new season, all brand new and available now, and you can link straight through to the stores too.

Fashion Editor at Large Recommends

Midi-length strapless dress, £37, Miss Selfridge

Acne knit, £230, from Browns

 

J Brand cords, £200, from Net a Porter

Oliver Peoples "Wacks" £200 from Net-a-Porter

DVF "Violet" cloche hat, £125 from Matches

Woven sweatshirt, £28, TopShop

 Klara loafers £52, TopShop

Burgundy pencil skirt, £25.99, Zara

ACNE AND THE TRANSVESTITES: CANDY MAGAZINE PARTY AT BISTROTHEQUE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

On Thursday night, everyone's favourite fashion brand Acne launched a capsule collection of denim shirts with transgender and transvestite fashion magazine Candy. They are (of course) intended to be unisex. After years of the standard actress/style icon/designer/highstreet collaborations, this project most definitely puts the fun back in fashion. The party was held at Bistrotheque, and it's safe to say that the evening got more than a little surreal...

Candy mag.

Some of the Acne/Candy shirts, modelled by very beautiful girls/boys/girls...who can tell?

Mingling with a crowd of beautiful boys and extremely trendy girls (who were all trying to out pose each other; the drag queens won, hands down) the founder and Editor of Candy magazine, Luis Venegas, told me how he was pleasantly surprised when Acne approached him about creating a capsule collection, and was excited to see the final product. As a huge fan of melodramatic, uber glamorous Eighties soap operas, he has named each shirt after a character from Dynasty. Naturally, the 'Alexis' shirt features a huge denim pussy bow, and is Luis' personal favourite!

Luis Venegas

The party itself saw the usually industrial Bistrotheque transformed into a shimmering cabaret club, complete with walls of tinsel, ruby red heart balloons and a wall of orchids. Even the bar staff had got into the spirit of the proceedings!

Be-wigged barman.

Acne parties are always a hot ticket - the building filled up 10 minutes after the doors opened!

Upstairs there was a white painted garden shed, that contained an old television showing a film of boys in their boxers running around with exercise balls. I have no idea what that was about.

I sneaked backstage to watch the make-up artists work their magic on a group of cross-dressers and male models who had been roped in to give the evening an appropriate 'transversal' feel. Some were happier about having their faces done than others - listening to two queens debating shades of pink nail varnish was hilarious - but all looked lovely by the time they left the chair!

One slightly reluctant customer, who initially insisted he wanted to 'look like Shakira!'...

...but was swiftly told he would be rocking the Annie Lennox look that evening.

 

 Duncan from ACNE Paper looked breathtaking with his perfect swoosh of hair and immaculate lippy. Jealous, moi?

 Jeanette does her best serorita moves.

Of course, the pros arrived to show us how it is done! We love you Jodie/Jay xxx

My own evening took an unexpected turn when I found myself sitting alone in the bar area, watching the evening unfold. An older gentleman started up a conversation with me, explaining that he was here to take pictures for Candy. I was initially surprised that such a 'mature' guy worked for an uber-trendy magazine, but all became clear when he gave me his name; Barry Lategan. 

(I had to look it up, don't worry) 

He's only the man who took the photos of Twiggy! What a person to meet - the stories he had to tell! I became his unofficial assistant for the evening as he went around taking photos of the drag queens whilst balancing a saucer of pink champagne in the other hand. The consummate Sixties photographer, he was telling everyone how beautiful and fabulous they looked, and every person was happy to pose for as long as he wanted them to, due to his effusive charm and confidence. He even decided that I made an interesting subject, which was a beyond weird moment in my life. I was honoured to have spent a few hours with such a fascinating man, and it was the cherry on the cake of a brilliantly surreal evening. Acne and Candy = the perfect combination.

The video below shows Barry Lategan regaling the story of when he first met Twiggy. He's the perfect party guest!

 

Images: Candy, Acne, George Langford

In the mood for ACNE (can't help it, I'm a super-fan)

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

When it comes to ACNE, mood is as important as fashion. Which is as it should be. So in an aroma drenched former tramshed on East London's Rivington Street we attended ACNE's first ever fashion show. There were no ringside seats, and therefore no front row. But the fashion junior (fresh from her backstage chats, see below) and I positioned ourselves at the very front right corner of the stage to bring you the best view we could offer. As you can see from the above shot, the set created by Charles Koroly was atmospheric...

                

The show didn't have a catwalk as such, either. A large curtain was strongly backlit and you saw the models' shadow before you saw the model, who then swung around to stand in the line of a laser beam and pose for the inevitable lookbook. It was all very Star Trek. The above photo, by the way, shows the best trousers of the collection; a slim-leg jean completely covered with patches showing mystical symbols, including a keyhole, Ying Yang and a labyrinth.

  

                  

                                  

                 

                  

The clothes were ACNE at their loose, sexy, tough-chic best. In a tight palette of colours ranging from soft grey and buttermilk (this pale palette is the Next Big Thing in fashion, peeps) midnight navy and black the collection was a direct evolution of their spring range. There were two distinct trouser shapes: tight, skinny and ruched or loose washed silk with zips. Both shapes were topped with a fold-over collar shearling biker jacket. Likewise the hemlines came one of two lengths: very long or very short. Washed silk jumpsuits were a key outfit builder; I liked the way these were studded with the collaborative work of London-based jeweller Husam El Odeh. As always with ACNE there was copious amounts of leather of a distinctly Mad Max look and feel; and a utility multi-pocket element. Predictably my favourite pieces were a baggy graffiti printed trouser, and the shearling jacket seen below centre.

Talking to ACNE creative director Jonny Johansson after the show, I was amazed to hear that they were packing up the entire shebang and shipping it to Stockholm where it will be shown tonight as part of Stockholm fashion week. He also told me the show was inspired by The Clone Wars film, a favourite of his young sons. But I was more interested why he wanted to do a show in the first place, does ACNE need a show? It has sales and fans (I am a die-hard, as you might have gathered).

"I'm kind of scared of shows, especially catwalk shows. But I thought the trick was to do it before everyone else! Also the more you mature as a designer, and work with your medium you become more comfortable and confident with it," said Jonny.

So what is his ambition with ACNE clothes? "For me it has to be wearable. It's my Swedish functionality and purity coming through. I am always going to be stepping out of that box. It might be ordinary, it might not."

And the boots? There were some ridiculous boots on that runway. "In Sweden in winter it is all about a crazy boot," Jonny quipped.

A telling moment for me came when I asked what animals he was using to create his clothes. "It's all sheepskin; they treat it in new ways which gives it a lot of colours and textures. I did actually make a piece using fox. But it became too luxe. It didn't fit with what we are doing, and we did not include it."

That sums up ACNE for me. we wouldn't want to go all bourgeois now, would we?

PS. I met my major model crush Iris Strubegger last night after she modelled in the show. She is so beautiful. This Blackberry shot doesn't do her justice, especially with her silver space-age forehead make-up. I will share my Iris photo gallery with you soon! Oh, OK, just the one then...

                      
Catwalk photos: Fashion Junior at Large
Mood shots: Fashion Editor at Large
Me and Iris by Caireen Wackett

ACNE AW10 SHOW: AVATAR INSPIRED MAKE-UP

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large.

The lovely Shinobu (no last name. I like her style and am seriously considering being known simply as 'Esme' from now on) filled me in on the bold make-up for Svart Sno - copious glitter and circles of metallic copper, green and silvery blue.

' Last season we used lots of liquid gold eye-liner, and this time around we wanted to extend that same idea. Jonny had lots of thoughts centred around space and we looked at science fiction movies like Avatar for inspiration. Most of the models have bleached eyebrows, which seems to be a trend at the moment, and this just added to the other-worldly alien feel of the make-up, the clothes and ultimately the entire show'.

Snap-shots tapped to the banister for reference. 

More last moment mayhem before full dress rehearsal. 

The metallic circles on the model's foreheads coordinated with the hues of the collection. 

ACNE AW10 SHOW: POST-APOCALYPTIC HAIR

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large

I managed to catch up with James Pecis, god of ACNE hair, behind the scenes and this was what he had to say about the look him and his team created for the Svart Sno show:

'There's a post-apocalyptic feel to it. The inspiration behind this look came from Star Wars and Mad Max, a very futuristic aesthetic. ACNE makes a bold statement with their minimalism, and we wanted to stay true to that with the hair styling in this show. The model's hair is long and blow dried straight, with skinny plaits through the crown and framing the face. It works to contrast the strong make-up'

Check out the plaits James talks about. This seems a very hard style to replicate for a gal who never even came close to mastering the French plait as a youngster. 

A work in progress...

Doesn't this just encapsulate the backstage mood perfectly? All hands on deck for that one late model (there's always one!)

HANGING OUT BACKSTAGE AT ACNE

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large

Bad news - The Tramshed, venue of Svart Sno (or Black Snow) ACNE's AW10 show had a distinct lack of wireless access, which means that this report is coming to you a couple of hours later than previously stated. Nevertheless, as promised, here is the backstage coverage as seen through the lens of the Fashion Junior at Large (expect a vital opinion on the full collection from the Fashion Editor at Large tomorrow PM)

This sea of pink ACNE gift-bags contained a large dark bottle of perfumed room spray. The fragrance was created in collaborated with Stockholm based BYREDO especially for the Svart Sno show in the hope that attendees will 'remember this space and the night when you smelled it' (Jonny Johansson).

Here are the models in a pre-show run through. The atmosphere was tense but alive with excitement and creativity. (Check out the MOD - Model Off Duty - looks).

The girls wore ACNE AW10 shoes for the run through to practise walking in those spindly heels and super-size platforms.

  ACNE founder and creative director Jonny Johansson and stylist Michelle Jank oversee the direction of the show.

I've got ACNE

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

This is the Fashion Editor at Large's absolute favourite look from SS10 ACNE

Love the label ACNE. It's the acronym for Ambition to Create Novel Expression and this intention sums up a philosophy to work that is as good as it gets.

Tonight ACNE are having a catwalk show in London. It's their AW10 show. This show will be held before any other mainstream catwalk show in New York, London, Paris or Milan. So, quite a bold move. But if you think that Stella, Celine, Givenchy and a large number of other fashion houses have shown their pre-collections already in Paris we can see that ACNE are in a comfortable place. Their clothes are the equivalent of a giant pre-collection without the mainline to go along with it. In this, as in so many things, ACNE are on another plane of thinking when it comes to conducting their fashion business.

ANYWAY. I adore Jonny Johansson the man behind ACNE fashion, we have enjoyed some fun dinner conversation and I have a sense of wonder for the way his mind works. 

So when I read the below, it made me even more intrigued for the show tonight.

"When I was playing football with my sons, I approached this man who was wearing the most incredible shoes. I had seen him previously walking by my apartment in the most amazing creations - and I was super intrigued as to who he was - it was only later when talking to him that I found out he was Ingmar Bergman's set and costume designer and I realised I loved his work as much as his look."

Turns out Jonny is talking about the legendary Charles Koroly, one of the most successful costume and set designers in Sweden. When we get access to the show venue later it will be Koroly's set design serving as a backdrop to ACNE'S AW10 catwalk show. I wonder if he will be there wearing his incredible shoes.

Love, love, love this dress! Might have to battle with the Fashion Junior at Large for it. Or maybe we can wear on alternate days.

This jacket is Garth Brooks-tastic

This dress will become wearable on the last day of my greek holiday this year, I hope.

Shop the collection here:
http://shop.acnestudios.com/default.asp
Check back later for reports from the show!

FASHION JUNIOR AT LARGE: MY LUST LIST FOR SS10

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large

Although it's by no means been warm, the last few days have been comparatively milder than recent weeks, and the spring / summer 2010 trends have already begun to trickle into shops. I can see light and daffodils at the end of the tunnel and I'm starting to fantasise about what I'd like to be wearing as spring evolves. Some of my dream items fall into the 'wardrobe staple' category, and some do not. Some of them I can afford, others I most certainly can't! So here it is - my Lust List for SS10.  Feast your eyes...

ACNE wedge boots - £415. Oh my god I love these, and after reading a post by Luxirare charting the trials and tribulations she experienced whilst making suede ankle boots I appreciate them all the more.

These shorts grabbed me at the Whistles press day. The blush coloured suede produces a much softer look than leather versions (which I'm also massively in the market for). These beauties arrive in stores in mid February priced at £125.

Massively predictable I know but the Mulberry Alexa (£795) is bloody gorgeous. I've been admiring vintage men's briefcases for a while now, and this hybrid based on the classic Bayswater is bang on the money. The Fashion Editor at Large and I love cross-body bags in general so expect a post soon.

I came across Litter SF a few months ago whilst researching a story. They hand make all types of jewellery including chain garters, thumb holsters and studded shoulder pieces. Personally I'm loving this beetle 'handlet' (approx £77).

This might be a liiiiittle bit beyond my reach in terms of budget but that doesn't mean I can't sit back and appreciate its brilliance. It's Celine, it's chic as hell, and it's sold exclusively in 24 stores world-wide including Selfridges, Dover Street Market and Harvey Nichols.

At the ASOS press day I was really excited by their Black collection. I'm not sure how easy it would be to sit down in this dress, or if I'd even be brave enough to wear it out (lets be honest, it's in no way a subtle take on the lingerie trend), but I think it's beautiful nonetheless. We'll have to wait until April for this one, and it costs £95.

Who doesn't own a grey jumper? I'm a huge fan of the 'new twist on an old classic' formula, and the sheer arms on this Stolen Girlfriends Club sweatshirt make everybody's favourite staple look very of the moment indeed (transparency is huge huge HUGE this summer). Get it now on ASOS for £180.

Topshop's sheer tube dress is like a blank canvas for limitless creative styling. I'm envisioning all the fun I'll have layering it this summer. It's only £38 and will go into stores at the start of February. MINE!

This is the most exciting print I've seen in a while. Kaleidoscopic exotic birds, Venus fly traps and red lipstick! It's awesome! The dress is by Belle Savage at ASOS (£320) and will be available to buy in March.

I missed J+ at Uniqlo the first time around, and I don't intend to make the same mistake again. In my mind the coats are far and away the strongest pieces. I'll probably be wearing this one (£99.99) sans the belt.

Picture Credits:

ACNE, Whistles, net-a-porter.com, Litter SF, Style.com, ASOS.com, Topshop, Uniqlo.