Showing posts with label fashion bloggers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion bloggers. Show all posts

Sunday, February 21, 2010

THE ISSUE OF THE DAY IS STILL THE PERVADING PRESENCE OF BLOGGERS AT THE SHOWS




Posted by Fashion Junior at Large



 As I may have mentioned, I recently joined Twitter. Whilst I can grasp the simple task of a Facebook status style tweet, I haven't yet mastered the twitpic or the direct message etc, so have been attempting to pick it up by reading the tweets of the people I follow. In the last couple of hours there has been much discussion (mainly amongst the well known bloggers) over this article from The Global Herald.

Yet again the editors versus bloggers debate is being wheeled out with the latter being described as 'awkwardly dressed pseudo-fashionable young things who were pushing themselves towards the free press patisserie with aplomb'. Sigh. Like many teenage girls who aspire to inhabit the world of fashion journalism I never fantasised about writing online. I fell in love with the tangible aspects of the magazine. The smell of the pages, the cool smoothness of the cover, the weight of the printed product, which seemed to denote substance and knowledge of subject. But things change. The first time I meet the Fashion Editor at Large she told me ‘print is shrinking. Online is now the future’ – And just like that I knew I had to embrace a new medium for my passions. Whether bloggers carry clout in the industry is no longer debateable – they’re usurping front row seats at Dior couture right from under the noses of seasoned fashion journalists – but just how erudite and relevant their opinions are seems to be a constant point of contention. 

Maybe the reason the so-called ‘Tavi backlash’ has been ignited is because, whilst we all enjoy her insightful musings, some of her harsher critics simply believe she is not qualified to write for POP and schmooze back-stage at the Paris couture shows. In their view it’s all about knowing one’s place in the fashion pecking-order, or as Robin Scott says 'There is a food chain at work here, and those with dot blogspot or dot wordpress in their domain name should know that they are at the bottom of it.' 


But seriously, what about our very own Fashion Editor at Large and other seasoned writers who take up blogging? It adds a whole new dimension to the blogosphere. 

Scott does make some important points - some print journalists who take an anti bloggers stance need to understand that 'the very blogs they deride ... are read by far more – literally millions more – people than their own articles will ever be'. We need to address the issue of space at fashion Week in terms of the quality of the attendee's output as well as quantity of readers they draw. It's a complex task. 

Do you know what the most widely read magazine in the UK is? Take a Break. Yes Take a Break! It gets almost one million readers per issue, sells two copies every second and is the 4th biggest selling magazine in the world! It has a far far greater number of readers than say Vogue or ELLE, which fall near the bottom of the pile in terms of monthly sales. Sometimes things surprise you. Blogs are extremely widely read, and the well written ones are extraordinarily influential. 

All the nay-sayers have to eventually accept that things move on, and that print and online can co-exist. Way back in the day photographers were banned from catwalk shows and journalists had to be a dab hand at sketching the collections. Now we have Tavi, Bryan Boy, Suzie Bubble et al bridging the gap between mere mortals and the ethereal people of fashion society with their commentary.  It’s progression, and that is what this industry is all about.

Pic credit: tardeotemprano.net

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

AMERICAN VOGUE CELEBRATES FASHION BLOGGERS! OH HAPPY DAY!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large


When I was on holiday in Cape Town this new year I spent a magical new years eve with Matthew Brookes who told me he had photographed the worlds most recognised fashion bloggers for the March edition of American Vogue. My main reaction was WOW! I was so proud of Matthew for getting such a high profile feature to photograph. It was only later the 'if only' feeling kicked in. Despite my existing status as a respected print fashion writer of 14 years standing, I humbly realised I was also someone merely starting out as a fashion blogger.

To be recognised by American Vogue as a significant example of the new breed of fashion bloggers would be totally beyond! Still, I'm not bitter. I'm delighted for Bryanboy, Garance Dore, and especially for North Londoner Catherine Kallon of redcarpet-fashionawards.com for making the US Vogue cut. Also highlighted is personal lifestyle chronicler Todd Selby, beauty blogger Michelle Phan, Michelle Obama watcher Mary Tomer  and my blog crush, street style photographer Tommy Ton of Jak&Jil. Go, go, go guys! By showing us YOUR world view, edited by you without censorship, you have demonstrated the power of the people to cut through the hyperbole of constructed media and deliver the simplest most wonderful thing: the refreshing truth. You are the inspiration for the unpaid labour of love and personal commitment that is fashioneditoratlarge.blogspot.com! Thankyou and big love from Melanie Rickey of Fashion Editor at Large xxxx

TECH-CESSORIES FOR FASHION WEEK

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Hopefully the Fashion Editor at Large and I will both know how to mobile blog by Friday (in fact we are just this second trying to teach ourselves). If not I'll have no choice but to drag my chunky Toshiba PC (a cheap emergency purchase after my last computer was stolen from my empty house during Nottinghill Carnival) from show to show in a disgracefully ugly laptop bag. Please god don't let it come to that!

In an ideal world I would be carrying one of these:


 
YSL, Downtown Laptop Case, $1795


  
Mulberry Bayswater Sleeve £349.95



Aspinal, London Ladies Laptop Bag, £375  



  
Mulberry Daria Tote Laptop Bag, £599  



Fendi Laptop Sleeve, £255 
Credits: apple.com, net-a-porter.com

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

TAVI OUSTED BY YOUNGER BLOGGER?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The haters who speculated that everybody's favourite teen blogger Tavi Gevinson was being aided by a 'Team Tavi' have finally been silenced by the insightful opinions she voiced at the Evolving Influence Fashion Blog Conference hosted by the Independent Fashion Bloggers in NY last night.


Here's her take on the editors Vs. bloggers debate:

'A lot of it is kind of made up. I think it started to sort of come back and gain a little more momentum when a Grazia writer was sitting behind me and couldn’t see because of my hat. But like I saw what [she] Twittered, which was ‘Can’t see behind Tavi’s bow,’ and it’s like, I think [she was] just sort of like making a joke. But then it was like [transfers to ominous voice-over voice] ‘Bloggers and Editors at War — which side are you on?’

Read the full story at The Cut blog.

Meanwhile Racked.com are introducing guest blogger Katie as their New York fashion week critic. By the way she's only five. (Those jokers)
Katie hobnobbing with fellow blogger Bryanboy

Katie's show notes...vital I think you'll agree.

Picture credits: racked.com, nymag.com

Thursday, February 4, 2010

MY NEW CROWN PRINCE OF STREET STYLE BLOGGING

Tommy Ton of Jakandjil.com photographing Sally Singer of US Vogue in Paris

I have always been a street style watcher. A fashion stalker. A lot of my trend ideas come from seeing what people choose to wear, how they wear it and where they are when they're wearing it. It is a language all on its own. I was checking into The Sartorialist long before it became a cult blog, providing pithy captions for his subjects in my head, and then whenever I saw the man himself, Scott, at the shows or outside the Paris hotel he and I used to stay in (not together) I loved to watch how he blatantly sized men and women up on the street. He got away with it because he had a camera around his neck. Lucky.

Recently, I have added another fashion-stalker street-snapper to my love list. It's Tommy Ton from Jak & Jil  who has an eye for a picture that makes me think he is a beauty editor, accessories editor, fashion editor and art director all rolled into one. He loves an amazing shoe and bag, and has an eye for the more unusual composition that I find stimulating in my fashion head.  

This week in my mothership publication, the wonderful Grazia, I did a piece on Tommy Ton with a selection of pictures, but we could only fit in one. Because Tommy so kindly gave us several pictures to use, I thought it would be a shame to waste them, so I am showcasing them here.
What I like is that Tommy is capturing this Dior show as we journalists see it from the front row, complete with photographers, standing people, PR's, show producer's, discerning couture clients and of course the beautiful model in her Christian Dior Couture finery, in view.

When I tracked him down for Grazia I spent ten minutes outside the Chanel couture show on Rue Cambon asking hooded figures with cameras around their neck, are you Tommy Ton? Finally the real Tommy revealed himself.  And here is Tommy! How cute?

Tommy is wearing Alexander Wang boots

Later that day I interviewed him on the phone while he was trying to tap into some free wi-fi on the streets of Paris so he could send his pictures from the day to his blog. And he told me his story. He is 25 years old, and lives in a suburb of Toronto called Oakville with his Vietmamese parents. He started Jak & Jil four years ago, documenting the “not very glamorous” local Toronto nightlife because he was bored. "There wasn't much going on in Toronto." So he decided to spread his wings; "I wanted to take photos in the fashion capitals at their fashion weeks," he says. So that's what he did. I remember him in Paris a few years ago asking all us fashion editors if he could photograph our shoes. (He has a shoe fetish, how perfect and shiny are his Wang boots above?).  His perseverence has paid off; his talent has been spotted and he has been adopted by none other than Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld who has given him a page in this month's Paris Vogue. Not only Carine, in fact, but Anna Wintour too who is tapping him for the relaunch of Vogue.com later this spring. “At the Dior show I was sat behind Anna Wintour, and she turned to say “Hi” to me,” he says in amazement. He deserves the recognition. His pictures are beautifully composed, yet surprisingly he is not a trained photographer. “I just click away and hope...” he says, being modest. He definitely has the fashion eye; and he is in love with with fashion. “Fashion is everything to me; it’s all I care about” he says. Aaah.


I am anti-fur by trade, but even I have to admit that coat with those shoes on that bike with those glasses and the turban looks amazing.

THANKYOU SO MUCH TOMMY!
Melanie xx
Photos (not of Tommy Ton) are by Tommy Ton for http://www.jakandjil.com/
Tommy Ton photos by an as yet unnamed friend....

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

REVENGE ON THE FASHION WANNABE'S

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large
There is much fuss being made in the corridors of power in fashion about un-schooled interlopers crashing the scene. And there is a back atcha element to the exchange too, as bloggers get het up about fashion editors getting het up about them.

The online fuss that came out of fashion blogger Tavi's head bow obscuring the view of my colleague Paula Reed of Grazia made me realise that there is some genuine animosity towards fashion professionals from the fashion writers in the blogosphere. WHY???  I can't fathom it. We trained, earned ourselves jobs in fashion, carry them out professionally and are doing our jobs when we attend shows. We also promote fashion bloggers, read them, and support them. In my case I've become a fashion blogger too! What IS the problem?

So, I had to laugh at the gall of these two muppets, opps, I mean two posh prep school kiddies whose attempt to foil New York Fashion Week by hacking databases and putting themselves into the seating plans of major New York fashion shows got foiled.

I have to hand it to Becca Shumlin and Remy Renzullo (above), though, their ticket request letter was pure (misguided, yet twistedly correct in its structure) genius!

Hi [redacted],

This is Remy Renzullo, requesting an invitation for Alexandre Herchcovitch's Fall/Winter 2010 show. I work as a freelance stylist, currently working with the future first lady, Deborah Shumlin, of Vermont for the campaign trail and hopefully elected office. More information can be found here: http://www.shumlinforgovernor.com. In addition I have been signed on to contribute to a new fashion magazine, FUTURE. I would love to have seats or standing if available for myself and Rebecca Shumlin, the magazine's editor-in-chief and daughter of the future governor and, myself. Please let me know if this will be possible.

Thanks so much for your time,

Remy Renzullo

Read the full, hilarious story from Gawker here. Then worry that the future of fashion could be in the hands of the Remy's and Becca's of this world, and with PR's who want to give show tickets to people with those kind of credentials!



Photo credit: Getty Images.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

WILL FASHION BLOGGERS CHANGE THE WORLD?

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large


On Fashionblogs from Mary Scherpe on Vimeo.

Thanks to BryanBoy's ever on it nature, today I happened across this fascinating dialogue between Suzy Menkes and Mary Scherpe from Stil In Berlin, the German street photography blog. Apart from Sarah Mower, who embraced the Internet medium as early as 2000 by writing her catwalk show reviews online for Style.com, Suzy Menkes is the fashion doyenne who closely examines the changing nature of fashion's relationship with the online universe, and also accurately communicates it to the world at large. Her story on Balmain vs Balenciaga, writtern during the SS10 r-t-w collections, was just brilliant. Rumour has it that Anna Wintour has banned the word blog from being uttered in her presence. I think this story could be true, but only because she doesn't like the sound of the word itself. I can relate to that. Obviously I love blogging. But three of them on a Sunday the week before the end of January can only mean one thing - I had better stop procrastinating and  DARN WELL DO MY TAX RETURN.  

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

DO WE STILL NEED FASHION SHOWS?

PARIS TRENDING TOPIC: FASHION’S BIG CHANGE OVER TO WEB

The McQueen show Live Streaming consent form for tonights show. Do you like my hotel bedspread?

- Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large in Paris



This Paris fashion week will be remembered more for the Internet revolution (part II), than the clothes. In a digital era defining week, we have seen more journalists wielding Blackberry’s as note-taking devices than ever. Many of them filing straight to blogs, or twitpic and twitter instead of putting their notes down using old fashioned pen and paper. Next season we’ll probably all have Kindles, or something,

In New York, Marc Jacobs put bloggers, including Tavi and Bryan Boy, on the front row. In Milan, not to be outdone Dolce Gabbana put bloggers on the front row with laptops so they could cover the show live. (It was at this point, btw, that I decided to become a moonlighting blogger.)

In London Burberry put laptops on tap for bloggers who wished to report live from the party. (Didn’t see many takers, we were too busy rubber-necking Dav Patel, Frieda Pinto and Victoria Beckham.)

Anyways, now we are in Paris, and tonight Alexander McQueen is live-streaming his show to the Internet via ShowStudio.com. My invite says “if you attend this show, you will be deemed to grant your consent to being filmed”. Well the show is in three hours, and I’m getting my glad rags on now, and ringing my mum to tell her “I’m going to be on the Internet!”

All this Web hullabaloo is the cause of great debate amongst fashion’s power critics, who are wondering to themselves whether their services will be required next season. Or indeed if we need fashion shows anymore at all. “What is the point of a fashion show critic if you can see the show on the Internet?” "What is the point of a show, if you can put it straight on the Web?"seem to be the big questions. Well I guess in time, the point will be that the general public can read their critical review before deciding they want to watch the show or not. And fashion shows will become the popular entertainment everyone seems to want them to be. Not a trade show anymore, Toto!

One more thing, just been with Roland Mouret who is also filming his show to go out online. His won’t be live-streamed, but he is working with his parent company 19 – who are doing an excellent job at letting him get on with it – to create the first web fashion show you can see in hundreds of thousands of combinations. Even from the point of view of a model, or Anna Wintour (that is, if she hadn’t left Paris already.) He is using 28 camera's each with 360 scope.
This is my McQueen ticket, it's a hologram, and the girl's face becomes all pretty when you wobble it around.