PARIS FASHION WEEK: GUIPURE, THE SEQUEL

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Last week, we brought you news of guipure, the chunky lace which seemed to be making a noteworthy number of catwalk appearences. Well now we are sure that there is some sort of secret guipure society which has infiltrated the minds of some of the world's key designers because its presence has become almost ubiquitous during the Paris shows. So I thought I'd compile you an update of the different ways guipure and the like have taken on starring roles over the past few days of fashion month.

Patchworked, delicate panels by Peter Copping at Nina Ricci

In spearmint as a bodice overlay at Chanel

Pier Paolo  Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri went lace mad at Valentino

This is so chunky it borders on laser cut rather than straightforward lace. Valentino

Giambattista Valli went for blown up 60s floral patterns

At Louis Vuitton, a similar overblown flower on pretty, pretty parisienne dresses

More Vuitton

Louis Vuitton again. Marc Jacobs made his lace so chunky, it almost wasn't lace anymore.

Miuccia Prada continued what she began at Prada in the Miu Miu show. This time it was a little prettier. No bomber jacket to toughen up

Lace on lace on this Miu Miu skirt

 All images from catwalking.com. Miu Miu images from Vogue.fr

THE WEEK IN FASHION: AUGUST 29th-SEPTEMBER 2nd

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Hello there, fashion lovers and welcome once again to our weekly round-up of all the goings-on this week.

First up, this is practically ancient news now but Beyoncé is pregnant! She chose the VMA awards and a Dolce and Gabbana tuxedo to reveal the news. As her performance ended and she undid her jacket to show off her bump (encased in stretchy waistbanded trousers!), twitter records were broken with 8,900 tweets being posted per second.

Sequins and stretchy waitstband, oh the glamour (image from nymag.com)

While we're in congratulatory mood, we must mention the Venetian wedding of Sofia Coppola and Thomas Mars. The acclaimed director looked a vision of lilac loveliness in her Alaia dress- a lesson in offbeat bridal if ever there were one. 

Sofia Coppola with new husband Thomas Mars (Images from stylefrizz.com)

The cover of Dasha Zhukova's debut issue of Garage magazine (via The Guardian)

When launching a new magazine, one needs to get it talked about. Everyone knows that. However, in my memory no-one has done it quite like this before. The cover is a naked girl with a Damien Hirst butterfly sticker covering her parts.  "Peel slowly and see," reads the cover line. And when you do, there is her labia tattooed with a butterfly, its abdomen formed by her pudendal cleft," reported the Guardian today.

The Guardian continues: "Titled Butterfly Divided, it is one of a series of tattoos by famous artists (all men, sigh), including the Chapman Brothers and Jeff Koons, inked onto volunteers (Hirst's "canvas" is 23-year-old Londoner, Shauna Taylor). The works play on notions of who owns the art and what it's worth, while referencing tattooing's popularity reaching saturation point. Asked why she agreed to the tattoo, Taylor answered: "Not one single person can ever say they gave birth through a Damien Hirst piece of art. I can [if I ever give birth]." !!!!  Its not everyday you read a quote like that.

The real Wallis Simpson in the late 1930s

We tipped you off a little while ago about Wallis Simpson as a key style reference for FW11.Yesterday, Madonna's highly anticipated film exploring the life of the American socialite (played by Andrea Riseborough) had its premiere at the Venice Film Festival. While the film itself has received mixed reviews, the costumes, by Arianne Phillips, have been declared an indubitable success. Another very valid reason for a cinema trip is the appearence of James D'Arcy who cuts quite a dash as Edward. Madonna looked rather fab in her custom Vionnet gown, while Andrea was clearly so fed up of her Wallis look (close to the body, tailored, streamlined) that she decided to go for Princess-y froth in Dior couture. 

Andrea Riseborough in Dior (telegraph.co.uk)

Madonna in custom Vionnet with matchy sunnies. I love these colours (telegraph.co.uk)

As we gear up for the beginning of the Fashion Week season, we are happy to learn that Helmut Lang, purveyors of minimal luxe-grunge, are to show for the first time since 2007. Though we have to say, that just for minute there, we thought that the man himself Mr Helmut Lang, still one of the most influential designers that ever breathed despite the fact he retired to the Hamptons in 2005, was coming back to New York fashion week. That really would be something.

Anyway, the show will take place in New York on 10th September and will also be shown live on HelmutLang.com. In other New York Fashion Week related news, due to Hurricane Irene, Marc Jacobs has pushed back his show to 8.30pm on 15th September which is just hours before London kicks off. Not good for London Fashion Week at all. There are going to be some very jet-lagged fashion people zombie-ing about the first few days of London.

Helmut Lang Resort 2012 (Style.com)

Do you love Valentino? Do you love musicals? If the answer was yes to either of those then you will be happy to hear that there are plans for 'Valentino- The Musical', we kid you not! We thoroughly enjoyed the documentary, 'The Last Emperor' which followed the Italian design veteran in the lead-up to his retirement, but a musical? We are reserving judgement.

Valentino in publicity shots for The Last Emperor (Image from www.cbc.ca)

It's Friday and not so long since pay day, therefore there is no excuse not to pop into Topshop Oxford Circus to peruse Susie Lau's Edited selection which launches today. Her choices represent her personal highlights of Topshop's current offering and will be available for two weeks in the special Edited area of the store; a bit of a haven from the mad rush of frenzied shoppers. Topshop's Manchester store also has an Edited space so you can see Susie's picks if you're near there too. For an insight into her favourite books, music and some of the looks she has put together, take a look at Topshop's very own blog.

Susie Style Bubble modelling her Topshop Edited choices. Gorgeous! (Image courtesy of Topshop)

I'm currently on a bit of a roll with coffee table book buying, even though I don't have a coffee table.Anyway, Carine Roifeld's Irreverant is sure to  be an addition to the pile when it's released on October 18th. In the meantime, some teaser images have been released. It looks to us like this is an amalgamation of all Ms. Roitfeld's souvenirs and highlights from her time as Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue, an absolute treat for the those hungry for insider snippets from the closeted world of high fashion.

Dear Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Young Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

 'The Great Gatsby' which is described by The Times on the back cover of my copy as 'a timeless evocation of the allure, corruption and carelessness of wealth', is having a bit of a moment. Kate Moss is known to be a great fan; her recent wedding took inspiration from the world depicted by F. Scott Fitzgerald. Next week, Baz Luhrmann will begin filming his version with a stellar cast including Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire and, reportedly, Gemma Ward. No doubt it will be a beauty with Kate Moss first in line to watch.

Robert Redford and Mia Farrow in The Great Gatsby film in 1974

And finally, we are still loving the Lanvin film we shared with you earlier in the week. By the looks of Twitter, many of you are a bit addicted too. Well, this film, The Wanderer, shot for Dior Homme by Willy Vandeperre is the antithesis, but just as worthy of a look. It's a bit dark, very atmospheric and very cool.

IF I WERE AN HAUTE COUTURE CUSTOMER, THIS WEEK...

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Haute Couture is the ultimate rarefied world of fashion. It occupies its own fashion space, one populated with women of wealth whose lifestyle most of us can only begin to comprehend.  Generally, the designers who excel in this area are several shades apart from everyday ready-to-wear designers. The fashion houses who cross over, successfully serving both sides of the clientele, are Chanel, Valentino and Armani.

To pass an hour or so on this fine morning I imagined what, after viewing the catwalk shows, I would order from the couture ateliers for myself (should I be forced to spend my money on such frivolities). In the case of Dior I felt it neccessary to purchase from what is probably the most derided Haute Couture collection ever designed, with a spirit of fun of course. There is a certain charm to the mad tranny-ness of the whole thing if you look at it from a certain angle...

Christian Dior Haute Couture - think I might just order the top as my local vintage shop has a room full of those skirts

Rock n roll couture from Chanel

Black tailored elegance from Bouchra Jarrar

I've always hankered after a couture parka - Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

For that Venetian ball I might be invited to - breathtaking beauty from Elie Saab

Divine Valentino Couture

There was something quite magical about this collection, so two purchases! - Valentino Couture

Beyonce wore Alexandre's gold jacket for her epic Glasto performance. Anything Beyonce can do, right? Alexandre Vauthier revives the Mugler/Montana 80s silhouette

Ideal coat for a Christmas party (that does not serve red wine) - Giambattista Valli

For tough-girling it around town at London Fashion Week? Maison Martin Margiela

Photos: Catwalking.com

DUCHESS KATE AND THE ART OF DRESSING FOR THE OCCASION

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

You'd think that the craziness surrounding Kate Middleton might have calmed down after she became the Duchess of Cambridge, but it seems the K-Mid fashion frenzy is continuing full speed ahead. That's a lot of pressure on the stylish shoulders of the newest Royal, so it is admirable that she has so far failed to put a foot wrong in the fashion stakes.

So how is she managing to pull it off? According to Clarence House, Catherine does not have a stylist (although she has enlisted the help of a 'personal shopper' for her upcoming tour of America). She still pops to the shops by herself, and is not afraid to recycle successful outfits. Not that there is anything wrong with that, it is a tactic that works for Michelle Obama, and gives a public-pleasing appearance of austerity for someone whose engagement ring costs more than Joe Blogg's yearly salary.

However, we think that we have uncovered the secret to K-Mid's success in the style stakes, and it has nothing to do with crafty shopping or expert advice. Instead, the new Duchess has turned protocol and tradition into a template for her outfit inspiration. It's dressing for the occasion, except the occasion takes on a more thematic role. Catherine thinks about what the occasion she is attending is all about, and picks out an outfit that reflects the activity. We present to you the photographic evidence:

Atttttteeeeeennnntion!

When Prince William has to don full military regalia, the Duchess of Cambridge follows suit. This navy double- breasted coat with gold accents complemented her husband's uniform to perfection, while also creating the illusion that she herself was in uniform, making her seem more involved in the event (the couple presented the Operational medals to the Irish Guards at Victoria Barracks in Windsor.)

Kate's Temperley 'Moriah' dress: perfect for Murray watching

Whilst cheering on Mr Murray at Wimbledon, Kate rocks up in a white pleated 'Moriah' dress by Temperley. Not only had the (now half price) dress sold out within 30 MINUTES of her taking her place in the Royal Box, it also looked like she had come prepared for her own game on Centre Court. The Fash Ed and I are divided on this look; on the one hand, she looks elegant, tanned and chic, but on the other, I do believe she might have taken dressing for the the occasion too far on this, er, occasion.

It's pretty likely that Catherine is going to continue with this plan of action, so in the spirit of helpfulness, we thought we'd offer up some suggestions for some of K-Mid's future fashion dilemmas from the resort collections.

A Royal Garden Party

Obviously, if we are sticking with the theme, Catherine is going to need something featuring a bloom or two for this traditional summer occasion. This watercolour floral Valentino frock would be perfect for the job.

 Valentino Resort 2012

Theatre Trip

No doubt their Royal Highnesses will be popping up at an opening night over the course of coming months, so Duchess Catherine will need a suitably dramatic gown for such an evening. This Erdem number is slightly different from Kate's usual pastel-toned style, but teamed with a subtle smokey eye and discreet jewels, it should look spectacular for a night at the theatre.

Erdem Resort 2012

Hollywood Charity Gala

While they are over in the USA, William and Kate may be required to attend a swanky Hollywood black tie event; it's a hard life. In order to maintain her style icon status, it's only right that Kate would look for inspiration from the Hollywood greats, and it doesn't get more Monroe than this showstopper of a Zac Posen gown.

Zac Posen Resort 2012

Opening of London Fashion Week

It's only fair that SamCam, in her role as ambassador for British fashion, would rope in our current greatest export to help launch LFW in Spetember. The Duchess will therefore need something seriously 'fashion' yet still befitting an HRH, so step up to the plate, Peter Pilotto.

Peter Pilotto Resort 2012

So there you have it: outfits for every occasion, fit for a future Queen. If the job of Royal Stylist does come up, one will know who to call, won't one?

Images: PA, Style.com

OUR PICK OF PRE-FALL 2011 - FASHION JUNIOR

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large 

Following on from Fashion Editor's post about Giles and his thoughts on the current pre-fall collections, we decided to do our own personal edit of the looks. The pre-fall collections are so desirable, it was nigh-on impossible to whittle them down to just these few looks, but here are my dream outfits:

Celine - It was something akin to torture to pick one outfit from the collection, which was a chic, Sixties-fest, but this outfit came out on top as my ideal daywear. I do enjoy a bit of houndstooth. 

Who wouldn't want to be dressed as a sparkler, if Erdem was creating the outfit? Fireworks are are an inspired move for the master of print, and I like the 'subversive librarian' feel of a blazer and maxi skirt combination. 

Monochrome, velvet, sheer billowing sleeves and a massive witchy pendant: yes please, Lanvin.

How beautiful? No-one does romantic like Valentino. I think I would goth-up this frock though, with dark make up and heaps of jewels, just to balance out the frou-frou. Then I would wander around pretending to be Kate Bush.

Perfect pink by Derek Lam. This minimalist frock, in my opinion, is just crying out for a 'Jackie O circa 1967 hairstyle' and a stunning necklace. But that might be my inner drag-queen talking. Regardless, this is a knock out frock in the colour of the season.

Up next, the Fash Ed get's the big-head treatment as she models her favourite pre-fall looks.

PS. With thanks to Anna Dello Russo...

Images: Style.com

MY TOP TEN OUTFITS FOR SPRING 2011

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Celine.

This looks so easy and chic, and fresh and different.

Lanvin

This outfit took my breath away on the runway. To wear long next season, it must billow and have a split. To wear this oneself is surely to feel all-powerful and alive.

YSL by Stefano Pilati

The platforms, the oddly coloured ruffle, and the conservative black skirt-suityness of it all is seductive.

Diane von Furstenberg

A silk blouse and boyish cropped trouser. My staples.

Louis Vuitton.

There is no other word for this but LOVE

Nina Ricci

I am a huge admirer of Peter Copping, he is a charming Englishman as well as extremely talented and brilliant. This dress might be frou-frou but I can so imagine wearing it at something major.

Preen

Simple, elegant and easy. All you need when rushing around being Fashion Editor at Large.

Valentino

Hard to choose my favourite, but can see this dress will bring me hours of fun and admiration.

Peter Pilotto

This makes me think of Wallis Simpson. Not a bad person to channel on a late spring night out.

Jil Sander

My pink trousers!